New Mexico Cosmetology Practice Exam

What chemical is commonly used to achieve a permanent wave?

1. Amino acids

2. Ammonium thioglycolate

3. Hydrogen peroxide

4. Citric acid

The correct answer is: Ammonium thioglycolate

Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical widely utilized in the process of achieving a permanent wave, also known as a perm. It functions as a reducing agent, breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair's keratin structure, which allows the hair to be reshaped into curls or waves when applied properly. Once the desired curl is achieved, a neutralizer is used to reform the disulfide bonds in the new shape, ensuring that the curl pattern is set. In contrast, amino acids are the building blocks of proteins and do not directly affect the curling process in perming. Hydrogen peroxide is typically employed as a bleaching agent or in hair coloring processes, rather than in permanent waving. Citric acid is often used in hair treatments for its pH balancing properties, but it does not have the same chemical effects necessary for forming a permanent wave like ammonium thioglycolate does. The specific action of ammonium thioglycolate in altering the hair structure is what makes it the go-to chemical for achieving lasting curls or waves.